Innominata | #summitsathome

24 March 2020
Innominata | #summitsathome

During these days, I continue to review each of the challenges and memories of the Summits of My Life project. I chose the eight peaks because they make me a special illusion, because of the sporting challenge they entailed or the beauty of the mountain, because of the difficulties I would encounter or because of the learning I thought it would bring me.

In July 2013, I told you that we lived a Mont Blanc of record and friendship with Mathéo; Shortly before, in September 2012, it was the Innominata's turn.

Surely this journey was for me the beginning of a change in how I see the mountains, going from competition, where the most important thing was the crono, to a way of going light to be more in contact with the mountain and with my body and where going fast was a consequence of the style. It also made me discover the wonderful southern slope of Mont Blanc, a land of Himalayan dimensions next to my house.

You can remember the challenge in images in the movie 'A Fine Line'


In addition, below I share with you the personal chronicle that I did by then:

"September 18, 2012 is the day chosen to attempt the demanding journey from Courmayeur, in the Aosta Valley (Italy), to Chamonix (France), culminating Mont Blanc by one of its technical climbing routes in 'solo' : The Pilier Innominata. Following the principles of the project, I will try to do it without assistance and with the least possible material: I carry a 7 mm and 20 meter rope in my fifteen liter backpack, helmet, aluminum crampons, 40 cl. of water... The idea is to run, very fast, to the foot of the mountain, climb to the top with the minimum of equipment and in the shortest possible time, and descend quickly down to Chamonix.

I start the journey at 3:53 in the morning, in the Courmayeur church square (1,000 meters), on a completely clear and starry night, accompanied only by the light of my headlamp. I quickly advance through the valley towards Vall Veny (1,500 meters), where a technical path begins in the direction of the Monzino Refuge (2,590 meters). I arrive with good feelings. It's 05:25.

From here the complicated section begins, and also one of the ones that worries me the most, since I have to face the glacier that will take me to the Eccles bivouac, at 4,041 meters high. Seeing the state of the glacier my doubts fade: due to the low temperatures at night, the glacier is re-iced, so I can pass without problems with the help of crampons. Once I see that there is no danger, I am relieved.

I know I can overcome the Innominata well, I already did it a few days ago with Dakota Jones, and I was able to recognize what are the most delicate points and how I have to overcome them. Despite having a fresh memory of the details of the journey, you should always be careful. It is a very technical route, so I have to be very focused. You must have your senses activated and not let your guard down at any time, because there is no room for mistakes.

Luckily, I haven't found too much snow or too much ice. Then I begin the ascent to the top of Mont Blanc (4,810 meters), which ended 2 hours and 47 minutes later after leaving Eccles. I crown the summit at 10:15 in the morning, 6 hours and 17 minutes after the exit of the Courmayeur church. 

The descent through the voie Royale awaits me, the normal route of descent from Mont Blanc passing through the Gouter refuge, the Houches, to finally reach Chamonix (995 meters). I feel like I am flying down from the top of Mont Blanc; in 2 hours and 19 minutes I reach my goal, the church square in Chamonix, where I stop the chronometer in 8 hours 42 minutes and 57 seconds.

Once in the square, after having made 42 kilometers through the technique via Innominata, I feel very happy. The weather has accompanied me throughout the journey and I have found myself very well physically and this has allowed me, after overcoming the glacier and the first rope length, to have the opportunity to enjoy the spectacular beauty of the landscape. It is not until then that I realize, surprised, my record time. My goal was to drop below ten hours, but thanks to the good conditions I have found, I have even been able to reduce the expected time.

27 March 2020

Mount Cervino, symbol of the impossible #summitsathome

20 March 2020

Memories of Mont Blanc (SoML) #summitsathome